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Here is how it looks like when the cooling fan, protecting rubber and original ignition device have been removed
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I begin by installing the two magnets of the kit instead of the original leads
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Then I install the ignition box approximately
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A new wiring pass-thru is included in the kit, it’s bigger than the original one, because of the additional wires
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I insert the new wires in a protecting rubber tube
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The path of the wires is important…
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…to be sure that the fan will not hit them, of course
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To adjust the device, the ignition setting point must be found. To do that, I insert a 6 mm shaft (a drilling bit does a great job) in the hole shown here with a screwdriver
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Then I turn the engine flying wheel until the shaft finds its corresponding hole on the flying wheel. I am now exactly on the ignition setting point (8 degrees before Top Dead Center). I mark it with a little bit of paint
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I do some connections and I begin to adjust. First, it’s a rough setting, engine not running, with a LED on the device box. I turn the box until the LED comes on at the ignition point previously set
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Then I do a finer adjustment with a stroboscopic lamp, this time with the engine running (and the 6mm shaft removed, of course). I use the paint mark to fine tune the ignition point
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That’s it, it works, so I tighten the screws maintaining the ignition box and I put back every part I removed to get there. Don’t forget to put back the protecting rubber before the fan, like I did of course 😉